Originally posted by Horns4Life: TOH, I got to thinking that about how much a shaft can affect a clubs performance. I really liked that RIP shaft I hit yesterday and got to thinking that it may benefit me to reshaft my 3 wood. I hit a tour edge exotics (the original fairway wood) in 15 degree and love it (the distance and feel are unbelievable). I looked at the shaft and it's a fujikura high launch in stiff flex with a mid flex point, weighs 68g, and has a torque of 3.5 degrees. Is there much if any difference in that shaft versus a aldila RIP beta (which I got on my driver, the alpha for the driver), which has a frequency of 260, the same torque (3.5 degrees), 64g, and a mid flex point as well?
Just repeating the post so you can see the specs.
TOH, in all honesty, if you were in my shoes would you reshaft the club, get a new one, or leave it as is? To give background info... I hit it pretty far. It's a solid club and I am long with it. The accuracy is ok, definitely not up to par, but that's also a testament that I'm getting back into playing consistently and have a lot of work to do. With my previous numbers (swing speed around 112mph), would you recommend me getting this reshafted? I'm not opposed to buying a new 3 wood, although I am worried about getting a new 3 wood and hitting it like crap. If I did purchase a new 3 wood, it would be a xcg-4 from tour edge since I'm a firm believer they make the best 3 woods on the market by a mile. I'm making all the revamps necessary so that I can be playing the proper club, shafts, etc... all summer long.
While money is always an issue, my wife has literally allowed me to go on a spending spree so if you had to make a recommendation off of what you know about my stats, etc.; what would you recommend?
Thanks again man!
Posted on 5/18 2:59 PM | IP: Logged
this has been a very interesting thread, thx
I just recently started playing, i just have a set of the top flite clubs that have everything for you
i was wondering how much good it would do me to upgrade at all since i really enjoy playing and would like to venture deeper into the game so to speak
The maltby clubs you posted seemed interesting since i have no desire to spend tons of money
Posted on 5/18 3:15 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by Horns4Life:
Originally posted by Horns4Life: TOH, I got to thinking that about how much a shaft can affect a clubs performance. I really liked that RIP shaft I hit yesterday and got to thinking that it may benefit me to reshaft my 3 wood. I hit a tour edge exotics (the original fairway wood) in 15 degree and love it (the distance and feel are unbelievable). I looked at the shaft and it's a fujikura high launch in stiff flex with a mid flex point, weighs 68g, and has a torque of 3.5 degrees. Is there much if any difference in that shaft versus a aldila RIP beta (which I got on my driver, the alpha for the driver), which has a frequency of 260, the same torque (3.5 degrees), 64g, and a mid flex point as well?
Just repeating the post so you can see the specs.
TOH, in all honesty, if you were in my shoes would you reshaft the club, get a new one, or leave it as is? To give background info... I hit it pretty far. It's a solid club and I am long with it. The accuracy is ok, definitely not up to par, but that's also a testament that I'm getting back into playing consistently and have a lot of work to do. With my previous numbers (swing speed around 112mph), would you recommend me getting this reshafted? I'm not opposed to buying a new 3 wood, although I am worried about getting a new 3 wood and hitting it like crap. If I did purchase a new 3 wood, it would be a xcg-4 from tour edge since I'm a firm believer they make the best 3 woods on the market by a mile. I'm making all the revamps necessary so that I can be playing the proper club, shafts, etc... all summer long.
While money is always an issue, my wife has literally allowed me to go on a spending spree so if you had to make a recommendation off of what you know about my stats, etc.; what would you recommend?
Thanks again man!
Either/or is fine. If you like this 3 wood, I see no reason to switch. The thing about 3 woods is that there really isn't a lot of technology change YoY. They are mostly steel heads and in the 145-180cc range.
We're starting to see titanium come into the marketing place in fairways and that is just a gimmick. With the increased loft of a 3 wood, spring-like effect is nullified and you actually want the hardness of steel working with you.
With that said, if you are re-shafting the RIP is certainly a good option. However, I think you might benefit in going with a Project X wood shaft. Other great options would be (im still assuming price is no object) looking at the Graphite Design Tour AD DI, Miyazaki C. Kua Wood series, Matrix OZIK HD6, Mitsubishi Diamana White 73 or Fubuki 73 series.
I'm going to strongly recommend the Project X though. Great feeling shaft with the Matrix being a close 2nd.
Posted on 5/18 3:24 PM | IP: Logged
quick question, what's the difference between tapered and parallel tip steel shafts?
Posted on 5/18 3:35 PM | IP: Logged
I'm actually torn on the topic because I really want the new cb-4 that tour edge came out with, but it's only in right hand at the moment. It would suck to throw down $200 on a shaft to see them come out with a cb-4 in LH in a month or a few months and know that I wasted money on a shaft. Question is, can I put a new shaft in my current 3 wood and re-use it in a new cb4 say 3 months down the road and have it working at optimal performance? Is it even possible to re-use the shaft on multiple clubs?
This post was edited on 5/18 6:22 PM by Horns4Life
Posted on 5/18 3:44 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by Godzillatron: quick question, what's the difference between tapered and parallel tip steel shafts?
There are a few differences but the main one is structure and installed weight.
The parallel tip shafts, once the taper hits a certain point (usually .370), it maintains that diameter throughout the narrowest part of the shaft. Therefore, when the club is installed into different irons, the weight of the club changes. Because you are butt and tip trimming the shaft to length, the long irons will end up being a few grams heavier than the short irons.
Taper tip shafts continue the taper through the narrowest part of the shaft hitting about .355 inch in diameter. As a result, the tip cannot be trimmed without changing the diameter of the tip section. Because each taper tip will be butt trimmed and built to a specific length, the overall weight does not change throughout the set. The 3 iron weighs the same as the 9 iron. However, most taper tips will have a slightly softer tip because of the smaller diameter in the tip.
Most better players prefer taper tip shafts because of the consistency in weight.
Posted on 5/18 6:29 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by Horns4Life: I'm actually torn on the topic because I really want the new cb-4 that tour edge came out with, but it's only in right hand at the moment. It would suck to throw down $200 on a shaft to see them come out with a cb-4 in LH in a month or a few months and know that I wasted money on a shaft. Question is, can I put a new shaft in my current 3 wood and re-use it in a new cb4 say 3 months down the road and have it working at optimal performance? Is it even possible to re-use the shaft on multiple clubs?
This post was edited on 5/18 6:22 PM by Horns4Life
Yes. You can certainly uninstall and reinstall the shaft into a new head and still achieve great performance. You won't be drastically changing length (if you will at all) and it is completely ok to uninstall and reinstall shafts multiple times, provided it is professionally done.
If the head weights are different, you can simply add lead tape to make up the difference if it's lighter and if it is heavier, the effect will be minimal.
Investing in a good quality shaft is one of the most important things you can do for your game.
Posted on 5/18 6:33 PM | IP: Logged
That's a good deal. I like most players have played original factory settings stuff for years. Fortunately, when I measured in (5'9" 33 1/2") I'm standard and the ping rep saw me hit 3 shots and all 3 were on the money as far as the lie angle is concerned so I haven't crippled myself to bad over the years because of that. The biggest improvement I think I'm going to see in my score is obviously going to come from the putter imo. Been using a standard 35" scotty for years and after I finally decided to get a new one and decided to get fit... I needed a 33" The difference between using a 35" and 33" is night and day. It's 10 times easier to line up directly over your ball and see where the ball is going to go. The shafts are going to be a huge upgrade as is the driver. I was using a older model callaway ft-i with a regular flex mitsubishi rayon fubuki shaft. It feels like a fishing pole almost when I really try to crank one out. Lowering the trajectory on my irons will be a very nice upgrade. I was using dynamic gold S300's, but I was also hitting blades. Blades to the ping anser irons should really help quite a bit as well.
It's going to be nice not playing at a major disadvantage on the course anymore. Ultimately, any pro can walk up with my set of clubs and shoot scratch golf, but I'm not quite there yet.... or will probably never be, but I'll work at it.
It's also nice knowing about golf balls and how the compression works. It makes a lot of sense now that a ball can make quite a bit of difference as far as control is concerned.
I'm sure this thread is going to live for quite some time since so many golfers on the board always need advice. I appreciate all the help and pics as well as reports on the change in handicap will be noted as the summer progresses.
I obviously seem to be filled with questions so I'll throw another out... haha... I'm going to get a shaft and just keep my 3 wood. If I ever hear about something insane and it just revolutionizes the market, I'll make a change and re-use the shaft... so based on 112mph swing speed (maybe we need to drop that a little because I normally don't swing lights out on my 3 wood as much as I do with my driver) and a tour edge exotics original fairway wood (not quite sure the head will matter all that much in weight, but just throwing it out there even though I can't seem to find how much it actually weighs anywhere), what would you say works best for me?
Project X (I can't seem to find on their site fairway shafts, they all say hybrid or driver shafts) in which number (6.0?) and weight?
Aldila RIP Beta (I'm assuming you'd want me to go RIP 70 (beta) which is 74mg; correct me if I'm wrong)
Aldila Voodoo (I'm guessing you'd recommend SVS7)
Mitsubishi Diamana Red Board 3
or the Matrix Radix HD6
I saw you recommend the project X above, I just wanted to let you see some of the options I'm willing to pay for and what weight you'd recommend. Thanks once again! When you come to Austin (and I'm free to go aka not tied up in school) your round and beer is on me.
Posted on 5/18 7:11 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by Horns4Life: That's a good deal. I like most players have played original factory settings stuff for years. Fortunately, when I measured in (5'9" 33 1/2") I'm standard and the ping rep saw me hit 3 shots and all 3 were on the money as far as the lie angle is concerned so I haven't crippled myself to bad over the years because of that. The biggest improvement I think I'm going to see in my score is obviously going to come from the putter imo. Been using a standard 35" scotty for years and after I finally decided to get a new one and decided to get fit... I needed a 33" The difference between using a 35" and 33" is night and day. It's 10 times easier to line up directly over your ball and see where the ball is going to go. The shafts are going to be a huge upgrade as is the driver. I was using a older model callaway ft-i with a regular flex mitsubishi rayon fubuki shaft. It feels like a fishing pole almost when I really try to crank one out. Lowering the trajectory on my irons will be a very nice upgrade. I was using dynamic gold S300's, but I was also hitting blades. Blades to the ping anser irons should really help quite a bit as well.
It's going to be nice not playing at a major disadvantage on the course anymore. Ultimately, any pro can walk up with my set of clubs and shoot scratch golf, but I'm not quite there yet.... or will probably never be, but I'll work at it.
It's also nice knowing about golf balls and how the compression works. It makes a lot of sense now that a ball can make quite a bit of difference as far as control is concerned.
I'm sure this thread is going to live for quite some time since so many golfers on the board always need advice. I appreciate all the help and pics as well as reports on the change in handicap will be noted as the summer progresses.
I obviously seem to be filled with questions so I'll throw another out... haha... I'm going to get a shaft and just keep my 3 wood. If I ever hear about something insane and it just revolutionizes the market, I'll make a change and re-use the shaft... so based on 112mph swing speed (maybe we need to drop that a little because I normally don't swing lights out on my 3 wood as much as I do with my driver) and a tour edge exotics original fairway wood (not quite sure the head will matter all that much in weight, but just throwing it out there even though I can't seem to find how much it actually weighs anywhere), what would you say works best for me?
Project X (I can't seem to find on their site fairway shafts, they all say hybrid or driver shafts) in which number (6.0?) and weight?
Aldila RIP Beta (I'm assuming you'd want me to go RIP 70 (beta) which is 74mg; correct me if I'm wrong)
Aldila Voodoo (I'm guessing you'd recommend SVS7)
Mitsubishi Diamana Red Board 3
or the Matrix Radix HD6
I saw you recommend the project X above, I just wanted to let you see some of the options I'm willing to pay for and what weight you'd recommend. Thanks once again! When you come to Austin (and I'm free to go aka not tied up in school) your round and beer is on me.
Just because it's not a "fairway" shaft, doesn't mean you cant cur down the Driver version. In fact, that is what I usually do, although I tend to like a slightly heavier shaft in my 3 wood.
With that being said, you can easily cut down the Project X to 43 inches or whatever your current 3 wood measures at. The trimming instructions should be on the website.
RIP Beta will also be a good choice, but that is going to react much more harshly, just by its very nature of being a stiffer than normal shaft. Matrix Radix HD6 is good, but nothing like the Ozik. I highly recommend anything by Matrix, but by far the Ozik. My question is why the Red Board but not the Ozik? The Ozik is far superior to the Red Board but only $15.00 more?
So my top choices for you in this order would be...
1a. Project X 6.5 1b. Matrix Ozik HD6 2a. Matrix Radix HD6 2b. RIP Beta 70 3. Miyazaki Black Kusala
4. VooDoo
5. Red Board
Posted on 5/18 9:09 PM | IP: Logged
Project X it is. What an awesome week this will be. Just got emails that the clubs (driver and irons) will both be at my door Friday... can't wait! Finish finals at 12, texas de brazil at 1, golf at 3 or 4 if I ever wake up from my food coma.
Posted on 5/18 9:55 PM | IP: Logged
Is there anyway to save a thread like this if you are a golfer and want to save for future reference?
Posted on 5/19 9:38 AM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by UT1976: Is there anyway to save a thread like this if you are a golfer and want to save for future reference?
Yeah, this thread needs to be archived, if only to save The_OHIO_Horn from having to repeat everything he's contributed here countless times going forward.
Posted on 5/19 9:43 AM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by Sixth Street:
Originally posted by UT1976: Is there anyway to save a thread like this if you are a golfer and want to save for future reference?
Yeah, this thread needs to be archived, if only to save The_OHIO_Horn from having to repeat everything he's contributed here countless times going forward.
That would be ideal, haha. But I don't mind sharing my knowledge with the family of the board.
Posted on 5/19 9:59 AM | IP: Logged
Horns4Life-- Graduated from dental school 16 years ago. Actually where I picked up my golf addiction. One of my biggest regrets is working during summers in dental school. My unsolicited advice -- enjoy your time off, play as much golf with your friends as you can, and don't forget to include your wife as much as possible. Keep us up to date on your summer, us old guys will be working and checking OB daily.
Posted on 5/19 11:21 AM | IP: Logged
I've really been dreading my commitment to do summer research. I told a professor last fall that I'd research with him this summer and it has been eating me up. He's an awesome teacher and person so I feel obligated to work with him since I told him I would. I really want to do ortho, oms, or endo (not decided yet) and its gotten so competitive to get into residencies that you almost have to do it. I'd love to bail on it, but it just wouldn't be right.
Posted on 5/19 11:43 AM | IP: Logged
Understood, and you should honor your commitments. Still let us know how your "summer of golf" goes. Good luck on finals and hit'em straight!!
Posted on 5/19 11:52 AM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by Wardoug: Understood, and you should honor your commitments. Still let us know how your "summer of golf" goes. Good luck on finals and hit'em straight!!
I will keep everyone up to date on how the clubs are working out. The one thing I didn't mention is that my mentor said I only gotta work from 11-4 so I'll be hitting in the morning and later afternoon on most days. Cumulative Micro final at 10am tomorrow then it's off to texas de brazil followed by some golf.
TOH, I really appreciate all the advice and time you put into helping me out.
Posted on 5/19 12:03 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by Horns4Life:
Originally posted by Wardoug: Understood, and you should honor your commitments. Still let us know how your "summer of golf" goes. Good luck on finals and hit'em straight!!
I will keep everyone up to date on how the clubs are working out. The one thing I didn't mention is that my mentor said I only gotta work from 11-4 so I'll be hitting in the morning and later afternoon on most days. Cumulative Micro final at 10am tomorrow then it's off to texas de brazil followed by some golf.
TOH, I really appreciate all the advice and time you put into helping me out.
Not a problem, my man. Looking forward to hearing how everything works out.
Now if the damn weather would break up here and I could ACTUALLY play! I played last weekend for the first time all year.
Posted on 5/19 12:08 PM | IP: Logged
Oh man, you gotta get back to Texas. Weather has been really nice outside of a few storms for a week or two up here in Dallas; unfortunately, it's going to get really hot pretty soon.
Posted on 5/19 12:12 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by Horns4Life: Oh man, you gotta get back to Texas. Weather has been really nice outside of a few storms for a week or two up here in Dallas; unfortunately, it's going to get really hot pretty soon.
You can play golf when it's hot. You can't when it's cold.
That is my feeling on that.
Posted on 5/19 1:39 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by THE_Ohio_HORN:
Originally posted by Horns4Life: Oh man, you gotta get back to Texas. Weather has been really nice outside of a few storms for a week or two up here in Dallas; unfortunately, it's going to get really hot pretty soon.
You can play golf when it's hot. You can't when it's cold.
That is my feeling on that.
Bingo...I have no problems being one of the few on the course at 1pm in July when it's 98 degrees outside. ;-) Would take that anyday of the week over sub 40 degree temps where you can't even feel your hands.
Posted on 5/19 1:45 PM | IP: Logged
TOH, In your opinion what are the some of the better training aids/devices available? Thanks for your contribution to the site.
Posted on 5/19 2:25 PM | IP: Logged
TOH, going to buy new Woods and Irons.
50 years old, 12 Handicap, hit my 7 iron 150-155 yds.
Currently playing: R9 Driver (Reg Flex) Callaway FT Woods (Stiff) X20 Irons (Graphite and Regular Flex)
Looking at switching to: Driver and Woods - R11 for all Razr Irons
A couple of questions: 1. Have you hit the R11 3 and 5 woods? Thoughts on these? 2. Should I got with the Aldila or Callaway Shaft on the irons? If Aldila, do you know the difference between the VS Proto 85 and VS Proto 100?
Thanks for all your help
Posted on 5/19 3:04 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by cmorris119: . Should I got with the Aldila or Callaway Shaft on the irons? If Aldila, do you know the difference between the VS Proto 85 and VS Proto 100?
Thanks for all your help
Earlier in the thread TOH said Aldila far and away over the Callaway shafts, and the 100 is just a heavier shaft. Hit both and see what you prefer.
I am looking at the same set up you are eyeballing at the moment. Have a demo day in a week and very much looking forward to it.
Posted on 5/19 4:07 PM | IP: Logged
Anyone know the difference between the penta and penta tp balls?
Posted on 5/19 4:47 PM | IP: Logged
There is no ball called just Penta. Only the Penta TP.
Posted on 5/19 5:28 PM | IP: Logged
I switched from the Pro V1 to the Bridgestone B330-S and i won't go back. Great ball with excellent feel.
Posted on 5/19 5:43 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by cmorris119: TOH, going to buy new Woods and Irons.
50 years old, 12 Handicap, hit my 7 iron 150-155 yds.
Currently playing: R9 Driver (Reg Flex) Callaway FT Woods (Stiff) X20 Irons (Graphite and Regular Flex)
Looking at switching to: Driver and Woods - R11 for all Razr Irons
A couple of questions: 1. Have you hit the R11 3 and 5 woods? Thoughts on these? 2. Should I got with the Aldila or Callaway Shaft on the irons? If Aldila, do you know the difference between the VS Proto 85 and VS Proto 100?
Thanks for all your help
1. The R11 fairways are nice and feel really solid. I prefer the Ping K15 or G15 for mid-handicappers, but you will do just fine with the R11's. Make sure you hit them first
2. See ATR's response above. Aldila far and away.
Posted on 5/19 6:16 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by YarmKat1: TOH, In your opinion what are the some of the better training aids/devices available? Thanks for your contribution to the site.
This is really not my realm, as I focus mostly on equipment and I AM NOT a PGA professional.
But I have played at a very high level (Basically AA golf) and if pressed, I would go with the Tour Striker. I like the action it teaches amateur players and it is versatile.
I DO NOT like training aids that lock you into a position and try to teach a certain method.
Posted on 5/19 6:21 PM | IP: Logged
Thanks TOH, going to the Callaway Performance Center at Barton Creek tomorrow for an iron fitting.
Posted on 5/19 6:35 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by cmorris119: Thanks TOH, going to the Callaway Performance Center at Barton Creek tomorrow for an iron fitting.
Right on. In a previous post to ATR i believe I reviewed the RAZR if you want to check it out.
Posted on 5/19 6:42 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by THE_Ohio_HORN:
Originally posted by cmorris119: TOH, going to buy new Woods and Irons.
50 years old, 12 Handicap, hit my 7 iron 150-155 yds.
Currently playing: R9 Driver (Reg Flex) Callaway FT Woods (Stiff) X20 Irons (Graphite and Regular Flex)
Looking at switching to: Driver and Woods - R11 for all Razr Irons
A couple of questions: 1. Have you hit the R11 3 and 5 woods? Thoughts on these? 2. Should I got with the Aldila or Callaway Shaft on the irons? If Aldila, do you know the difference between the VS Proto 85 and VS Proto 100?
Thanks for all your help
1. The R11 fairways are nice and feel really solid. I prefer the Ping K15 or G15 for mid-handicappers, but you will do just fine with the R11's. Make sure you hit them first
2. See ATR's response above. Aldila far and away.
I agree on the G15 for mid-cappers. I have a G15 3-wood and love it. I hit that thing like a beauty and most of the time better than my driver unfortunately! Would highly recommend the G15 series for fairway woods.
Posted on 5/19 9:45 PM | IP: Logged
bump
Posted on 5/20 2:19 PM | IP: Logged
So buying a driver shaft is equivalent to buying a fairway wood shaft? I'd figure you'd lose more weight since you have more to cut, but then again, I've been wrong plenty of times already.
Posted on 5/20 5:45 PM | IP: Logged
Taylor Made demo tomorrow. Not expecting too much out of it - already have hit the burner irons and did not fall in love, but figure I will give them another shot.
Very interested in hitting the R-11 and their fairway woods. Hoping I don't fall in love with either, or the budget will have to be revised.
Posted on 5/20 6:15 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by Horns4Life: So buying a driver shaft is equivalent to buying a fairway wood shaft? I'd figure you'd lose more weight since you have more to cut, but then again, I've been wrong plenty of times already.
Not as a general rule, but for the Project X, Yes.
And the weight built into the shaft is made to be an installed weight. For example, a shaft that says 65 grams is most likely 70 or 71 uninstalled and once trimmed is "around" 65. It's all an approximation. The amount of weight is so minuscule, it is irrelevant to performance.
Posted on 5/20 8:59 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by ATRumbler: Taylor Made demo tomorrow. Not expecting too much out of it - already have hit the burner irons and did not fall in love, but figure I will give them another shot.
Very interested in hitting the R-11 and their fairway woods. Hoping I don't fall in love with either, or the budget will have to be revised.
While the Burner irons are Taylormade's best offering... There are much much better options out there from other manufacturers, from a design stand point.
Now I have yet to find a Driver I like as much as the R11. The sound it makes is so solid. Love the feel of it.
Posted on 5/20 9:02 PM | IP: Logged
are the MPF numbers as simple as the higher the better?
Posted on 5/20 10:26 PM | IP: Logged
I was fitted for and believe that the Muscle Back Taylor Made Irons that just come back are a great combination of blade look and feel with a little forgiveness from the new technology in golf clubs. However, If you want to know of the best blades period then you must look at Miura tournament or 1957 edition. They absolutely have the best feel of any club I've ever hit period. Most people don't know but Miura blades are what Tiger played when he was at his best. If you get more serious then go to dealers and look up David Butler he is a PGA master fitter. I am a 5 handicap and have been playing golf for 30 years and debate going back to blades everyday so I understand your dilemma. Good Luck.
Posted on 5/20 10:54 PM | IP: Logged
Without having to read 6 pages of type, have you said how good the Titleist AP2 irons are? Are they the best currently available?
Posted on 5/20 11:00 PM | IP: Logged
RazrX tour forged, AP2's and Ping Anser were 3 of the models he most recommended.
Posted on 5/20 11:22 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by kebonics: are the MPF numbers as simple as the higher the better?
Kevin,
Yes.
mammy
Posted on 5/20 11:31 PM | IP: Logged
I'll keep the questions coming, haha... Are hybrids commonly played with graphite or steel shafts. I've been looking at everything and realized all I see are hybrids with graphite, well mostly graphite. I've been hitting a steel shaft in my hybrid since I've had it... no complaint, just wondering.
This post was edited on 5/21 12:58 AM by Horns4Life
Posted on 5/20 11:37 PM | IP: Logged
thanks Robert.
I started looking at the MPF numbers and found some curious things. I thought the AP2's were great irons, but there are only in the mid 500's on the MPF's. The Ping Anser's are also highly recommended in this thread but its only 629 with the Ping K15s at 894.
I don't remember seeing the Cobra S3's recommended but they are one of the highest rated irons in the last few years at 885.
The Callaway RAZR's are very high at 970.
The Maltby irons caught me a little off-guard because of how TOH speaks of them as having more technology in them than most other clubs and that they are made by the guy who does the rankings. The two he recommends the most are only in the 700's (Tricept TU 759 and MMB 714) when Maltby offers a KE-4 U30 that is 1014 and I don't remember seeing that club mentioned.
I guess my question is, why is the AP2's thought of so highly by all the rankings (and I think by TOH in this thread) if they are so low on the MPF rankings? Heck, TOH even said Nike sucks at making irons and almost all of the iron selections going back to 2008 are just as high of a ranking as the AP2's.
I'm just having a little problem understanding the MPF numbers that TOH has talked about as evidence why certain irons are better but then his recommendations don't necessarily correspond with the rankings.
To be clear, I'm not trying to be critical so I hope it doesn't come across like that. I'm just trying to understand it completely because I might be in the market soon for irons and I want to maximize my purchase.
EDIT: OK so I did so more research on the clubs I mentioned. It seems the ones I mentioned are all cavity backs with very thick soles. I assume this is why they weren't mentioned because they aren't the type of club that most are looking to play. Most, I assume, want the look of a blade even if it isn't necessarily that thin. So is the 714 for the MMB about as high as it gets for a thinner club? I think that's a nice looking club and might want to try it out.
This post was edited on 5/21 12:22 AM by kebonics
Posted on 5/20 11:55 PM | IP: Logged
The MPF doesn't mean the club is better, it just means that the club is easier to play. It takes into account the size of the sweet spot, the MOI, forgiveness, etc... TOH was basically saying that'll give you an idea of what kind of club you are hitting and what type of technology the club has... hence, blades really don't have the same technology in them, aka a lower MPF. That doesn't mean blades can't be good clubs and work well for a player, it just means they aren't easy clubs to hit and they aren't very forgiving.
This post was edited on 5/21 12:36 AM by Horns4Life
Posted on 5/21 12:31 AM | IP: Logged
Since your new sticks have arrived, I am surprised that you had time to post before hitting the links.
Posted on 5/21 8:50 AM | IP: Logged
I got them at 9 last night. I wasn't home when UPS came by and I went for same day will call.... what a disaster. I was there at 7:40 and didn't get my package till 9. The UPS customer center in Dallas is a JOKE!
Posted on 5/21 8:59 AM | IP: Logged
Those are gorgeous sticks.
Posted on 5/21 12:20 PM | IP: Logged
Originally posted by THE_Ohio_HORN:
Originally posted by YarmKat1: TOH, In your opinion what are the some of the better training aids/devices available? Thanks for your contribution to the site.
This is really not my realm, as I focus mostly on equipment and I AM NOT a PGA professional.
But I have played at a very high level (Basically AA golf) and if pressed, I would go with the Tour Striker. I like the action it teaches amateur players and it is versatile.
I DO NOT like training aids that lock you into a position and try to teach a certain method.
I did some research on the Tour Striker and decided to get the Tour Striker 8 iron last night. I went and hit it this morning and as I suspected I wasn't compressing the ball. After 10 shots or so I was able to get it up and was hitting the 8 iron 160-165 with a much more penetrating flight. I plan on hitting this exclusively for a couple weeks to build some muscle memory and then seeing how it translates to my clubs.
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